Ama Dablam, also called as “Matterhorn of the Himalaya” among the Mountain Climbers is one among most adventurous and beautiful mountains within the world which is located in the Himalayan range of Eastern Nepal. The Unique Pyramid Shape of this mountain is its recognition .
The hanging glacier seen on the southwest face of Ama Dablam bear a resemblance to the sacred ornament box employed by Sherpa Women, which is understood as Dablam, therefore giving it a reputation as “Ama Dablam” .
Ama Dablam is 6,812 meters in elevation from the ocean level. This mountain isn’t impressive for its height except for its aesthetics it holds. Mt. Ama Dablam is found within the Khumbu region of Nepal, south of Mt. Everest. One should see some splendid views during the ascent to the top .
The usual ascension to Ama Dablam is completed from the South-western ridge. This was an equivalent route followed by the climbers who reached to the highest for the primary time to the highest in 1961. Commonly, climbers found out three camps slightly below and therefore the right of the hanging glacier, “Dablam”.
The hike is modest up to camp 1, but the challenge starts from camp 1 to camp 2 because it gets more technical within the narrow edges of ridges made up of granite. From going camp 2 to camp 3,the challenges reaches to the extreme . Some risk of glacier falls can’t be escaped but it’s said that, adventure without risk is Disneyland. One should train himself the talents of rock and hiking and obtain wont to high altitude before thinking of Ama Dablam.
If you’ve got former experience as a climber and need to hitch during a team of an expedition to a world’s most extraordinary mountain, then Ama Dablam Expedition is for you.
The Route :
After arrival at Ama Dablam base camp, acclimatize for a few of days while the guides and Sherpa team begin to repair the route and prepare camps on the SW Ridge,which is the most important part before you begin the climb.
This may leave optimal adjustment to the new altitudes and environment and permit the team to progress very slowly and safely. Now, the ama dablam climb begins and everybody becomes really excited for the challenge ahead which will be the greatest adventure of lifetime.
Use 2 camps above the 4600M base camp:
Camp One – On snow, or rocks 5650M
Camp Two- On snow and rocks, 6000M
After an appropriate resting period, venture towards camp one with no loads but some water, food and camera for the times climb. The climb although relatively easy, are going to be a challenge for everybody on the team. Ama Dablam acclimatization has barely begun and can be feeling the consequences of the skinny air up to over 5600M.
The Sherpa team is there to carry the ropes, hardware required , group sleeping,resting and cooking utensils and equipment for the high camps the leaders and members will aim to spend a minimum of two nights at camp one and one night at camp two in Ama Dablam.
Pushing any higher at now would only serve to weaken everyone and risk complications related to extreme altitudes. Therefore, steadily return back all the way towards the base camp or Pagboche for an prolonged period of relax and rest. During which era , The Sherpa team will make sure the climbing route is in schedule and also prepare and stock all of the high camps for the summit push.Then you will be all ready for this Ama Dablam expedition.
Ama Dablam is highly recommended to descend as far as possible after reaching the summit in any high altitude mountain. A robust climber should be ready to get all the way back to base camp after reaching the summit from camp 2. Usually though, people return to camp two or three and sleep for the night before descending early subsequent morning. it’s vital to remain alert and switched on during the descent as any false more with the ropes will end in certain death. The exposure on this ridge in incredible and there’s zero room for error.
This is why it’s highly recommended to travel with an expedition provider who offers detailed and structured training on the utilization of the fixed ropes specifically on Ama Dablam. As you’ll see from the photos, this is often no snow slog for beginners. this is often a significant route with objective dangers and tons of the way to ruin your day. Don’t let this scare you though, it’s the simplest route out there!
The Schedule According To Travel Agency for Ama Dablam :
Day 1: Arrival to Kathmandu & Transfer to the Hotel (1,400m)
Day 2: Rest in Kathmandu, Expedition briefing and Preparing
Day 3 :Flight from Kathmandu to Lukla including trek to Phakding (2,800m)
Day 4: Trekking from Phakding to Namche Bazzar,Solukhumbu (3,440m)
Day 5: Acclimatization at Namche Bazzar (rest day)
Day 6: Trek from Namche Bazzar to Tyangboche Monastry (3,860m)
Day 7: Trek from Tangboche to Ama Dablam Basecamp (4,450m)
Day 8: Basecamp Preparation; day of rest
Day 9 – Day 25: Climbing Period [Base Camp – Ama Dablam Summit (6,812m) – Base Camp]
Day 26 :Trek from Base Camp to Namche Bazzar (3440m)
Day 27 :Trek from Namche Bazzar to Lukla
Day 28 :Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu & transfer to the Hotel
Day 29 :Leisure day in Kathmandu City
Day 30 : Transfer to International Airport for final departure
The Climb Time( 12 to 24 hours):
Base camp to Camp 1 : 4 to 8 hours(Depending on the climbers)
Camp 1 to Camp 2 : 2 to 5 hours(Depending on the climbers)
Camp 2 to Camp 3 : 3 to 6 hours(Depending on the climbers)
Camp 3 to Summit : 3 to 6 hours(Depending on the climbers)
Required Gears :
- FEET :
-Flip – Flops
-6 Pairs of merino wool socks
-2X Winter Beanie
-2 Pairs Liner Gloves
-Gore-Tex Lined Gloves
-High Altitude Mitts
- BASE LAYER
-2X Mid Weight & Light Weight Long Underwear Bottoms & Tops
- MIDDLE LAYER
-Heavy Weight Fleece Top
-Fleece Pants (optional)
- OUTER LAYER
– Wind breaker
– Gore-Tex Pants & Jacket
– Soft Shell Pants & Jacket
-Expedition Down Jacket
- TREKKING & TOWN CLOTHES
- SLEEP SYSTEM
– 2x -18C Down Sleeping Bag
-Foam Sleeping Pad
– Inflatable Sleeping Pad
- CLIMBING EQUIPMENT
-Technical Ice Tool
-4x Locking Carabiners
-4x Wire Gate Carabiners
-15M 6-7mm Cord
– 20cm Ice Screw
- PACKS & DUFFEL BAGS
-Small Trekking Pack
-2 Large Duffel Bags
- REPAIR KIT
– Leatherman with scissors
– Duct Tape
– Seam Sealer
– Plastic Ties
– Ripstop Tape
– Mesh Bag
- PERSONAL CARE
-Personal Deodorizer & Soap
– Water Purification
- OTHER ESSENTIAL EQUIPMENT FOR AMA DABLAM
-2 Head Lamps
-Camera & Memory cards
-12V Camera Charger
-3 Water Bottles
-First Aid Kit
 Diamox (Acetazolomide) 250mg X 20
 Dexamethazone 4mg X 10
 Ibuprophin 200mg X 50
 Acetamenophin 200mg X 20
 Ciproflaxin 500mg X 10
 Blister control
 Wound Management
 Alovera gel or sunburn cream
 Antibiotic ointment
 Personal prescriptions, vitamins, ect.
- COOKING AND EATING ITEMS
-Spoon, Spork, Fork or Chopsticks
-Eating bowl with lid, Fair – share mug
-Good Coffee & Press (optional)
-Your Favorite Snacks & Power food